Thursday, December 6, 2018

Febrile activity...

                                     
At the Archives Nationales in Bamako, in preparation for the EVENT tomorrow morning. And that event is of course the Bamako version of the British Library’s exhibition from Djenné as well as the closing ceremony for the Projects.

The Director of the Archives, M. Diabaté, was supposed to go on holiday, but has postponed it in favour of staying to be part of this ceremony, which has gathered a sort of momentum and promises to be well attended : mostly because a rumour has circulated that Mme Keita, The First Lady of Mali would be present. Therefore the National Archives has been receiving a hurried, long needed touch of paint ; the gardens have suddenly seen some long awaited care and even the flooring has been repaired- so as not have the First Lady trip over the broken tiles. Yesterday I found out from the Britsih Embassy that the rumour was in fact false- she was otherwise engaged… However, I kept quiet about it, in order for the face lift of the National Archives to go ahead. We lesser mortals will be benefitting after all… and among us will be plenty of luminaries, including Diankounda Traoré, the ex-president during the transition period after the coup. He is a personal friend of Mark Saade, the Malian Consul to the UK who has flown out especially, bearing exciting IT paraphenalia from my old friend Nicholas Mellor who is setting up a ‘Google Expedition’ at the exhibition, which will enable the guests to  visit Djenne and the library in a 3-D virtual reality tour tomorrow morning…

More of this later of course…
Later:
We have lost an Ex- President but gained an Ambassador:
Diankounda Traore has had to rush off on important business in Accra, but Jessica Svardstrom, the new Swedish ambassador will be there, and that is nice!




Wednesday, November 28, 2018

This and that...





Life is neither particularly exciting or great, nor disastrous or grandly and interestingly tragic. Life is just trundling along, which is why I have been  quiet. But of course I am a spoilt brat too- for really, I should be happy about my up-coming trip  to Mali again on Monday; about the fact that the Djenne exhibition at the British Library will be duplicated in Bamako soon;  about the new commission for another canvas floor I have had- in Cambridge this time in  a lovely little late 19th century working man’s cottage which is being turned into a museum- The David Parr House. He was a painter and decorator that worked in a Cambridge paint factory, and his work inspired him to paint every surface of his house, which is is decorated  from top to bottom in lovely Arts and Crafts style, untouched for over a century. I am recreating a couple of floor canvases and have been working at home to prepare some samples.
      I  needed a stencil so I went to an engraving studio in Hatton Garden and had a stencil laser cut: what an exciting machine to watch and how beautiful to see the pattern emerging!

                                                                      
Then  a wonderful weekend in the north Oxfordshire countryside at the big lovely farmhouse of Imogen and Jasper- 
                                                                                                               
and finally on  to Mallorca to see dear Eva Emneus, who has now retired as ambassador to Mali- we spent five lovely days exploring that  beautiful island. So all is well... no, more than well really.
                                                                                


                                                                                


Sunday, November 11, 2018

The Happy Girl


                                                                     

Jeremiah thought I ought to keep a a happy little girl handy as a counter weight to the disgruntled  tot below (given to me by Malick Sidibe in 2007) that I use to illustrate assorted  hardships or frustrations I am experiencing.


And here she is at the top, the lovely little girl Jeremiah gave me for that very purpose. She is from upper Cape Town, South Africa 1973, and the picture is taken by Juhn Kuus. Let's hope we have reason to see plenty of her in the coming months!

Today she introduces some good news: MaliMali is still operational in Djenne, and apart from our textiles  we are an agent /middlehand for some local women who make necklaces from recycled flip flops. When I arrived in Djenne in October I was able to give them an unusually large new order from Zingy B, a South African shop that has  been a good client for many years. Below is a small part of the finished products, ready to ship.

Niaber is a Bozo woman who has a little team of her friends making the necklaces in their back yards in between the household chores. They were thrilled to have some work again- the first in many months. 



I was able to give her an advance to  start the work when I was there. Since we have a long
 standing relationship with the South African client, I was not worried about payment. 

Niaber was so happy about it that she sent over a whole tubful of the delicious little whitebait style fish that she had just deep fried that evening- the lovely little fishes are called Tineni and it is one of the best things of this time of the year in Djenne..here below with Baba, my ex-waiter, who joined me for the feast.


A few days ago Dembele and Maman, the remaining Malimali staff in Djenne told me that Niaber had delivered the finished goods . I contacted the South African client and sent her the invoice which was supposed to be paid in full at this stage: a sum of about  £800 pounds which should be sent by Western Union directly to Dembele. I heard nothing. I sent more emails. More nothing. Finally I sent this:
"Good morning Leana,
I am very concerned that I have not heard from you. I hope you are well? Perhaps you are travelling somewhere out of internet reach?
Are you experiencing problems accessing the money? Please do let me know what is going on and we will try and find a solution.
Because we are dealing with people that are extremely poor in Djenne, - much poorer than you can possibly imagine- I now find myself forced to send out sufficient money to pay  Niaber and her workers unless you can pay today or at least let me know that you are sending the money Monday at the very latest.
looking forward to hearing from you today
Best wishes,
Sophie"

More of nothing followed....I believed I would have to step in and pay, I told Dembele and Maman to reassure Niaber they would be paid on Monday whatever happened. I even said a  prayer about this- because I can't really afford to pay for it all...

and then finally  last night I got this back:
"Hey Sophie Gosh!
Your mails went to my Spam Folder for some or other goodness knows why reason!
I just came upon them now by accident.
I will pay as soon as Western Union opens on Monday morning.
I will never not reply or not pay.
I have no idea why mails went to spam. I never look in the spam folder.
Regards
Leana"
                                                                         


Thursday, November 8, 2018

The Honorary Consul.

Mark Saade is the Honorary Malian Consul in London. Born in Segou of Lebanese parents, he is a third generation Malian and runs an ambitious and very thorough Consulate it seems to me: certainly not much  resemblance to Graham Greene’s  whisky-soaked and wistful character here...

 I visited the Consulate yesterday: only a pleasant short walk through the lovely autumnal Notting Hill streets.                                                              

The Consulate doubles up as Mark’s architectural practice.  I was very pleased to find out that it is possible to get visas for Mali there. That is it then. No more queuing up at the dreary old Surete in Bamako, with the grumpy Madame Maiga whom my Keita always quarreled with when he used to accompany me to the visa place.
Mark is helping me to try and find sponsors for the Djenne Manuscript Library, so it can at least stay open. He will be going out to Mali at the beginning of December and will be present at the ceremony that marks the opening of the Bamako version of the exhibition which is now at the British Library.
He seems hopeful and has great contacts- here and in Bamako- so hopefully...

                                                                          

And last night our little Dante reading group finally  finished the  Inferno! It has taken us nearly a year to reach  the final line of the  final stanza  as Dante and Virgil emerge from the deep:

'to look once more upon the stars'.


We celebrated by seeing a beautiful film, the very first feature length movie ever made: the Italian 'Inferno' from 1911, with some lovely 'special effects': here the unfortunate lovers are swept around eternally by a great wind in the Circle of the Lustful. In the New Year we will begin to climb 'Purgatorio',  the sequel in Dante's epic poem.

Saturday, November 3, 2018

Hyde Park

on a sunny autumn Saturday.

The light is bright and hard- the white of the birds on the blue of the water seem like exaggerated technicolour from the days of early colour films. Almost all the people that are walking here and passing me are talking other languages- Italian, French, German mostly. They are still here, but what crowds will walk these paths next year?  
 Everyone does look very happy as they are walking their dogs and children,  marvelling at the Peter Pan statue, taking selfies. A large flock of birds fly up between the trees and then change direction in perfect unison, how do they all know when to move? It must be nice to understand one’s place in the whole picture so clearly.

I read a very good article by Max Hastings  in the Times this morning about the Great War
but it may not be possible to reach it, behind a paywall, alas. It inspired me to try and find a poppy- not very easy to find the Poppy selling points!




Monday, October 29, 2018

Water rising still...

Maman sent me this picture this morning: it shows the entrance to the former Hotel Djenne Djenno where the wall has collapsed because of the high water.
Behind it is possible to glimpse  my land with the Malimali bogolan studio which is still OK.

Dembele and Maman are still painting: here is our Labyrinth Bogolan which I just put up on Etsy, where we have been selling our fabric: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/MaliMaliStudio

And  still the water is rising says Maman...

Friday, October 26, 2018

Rosa Bouglione - a must-share obituary from the Times this morning

Rosa Bouglione obituary
Queen of the French circus whose troupe travelled with 30 horses, 12 elephants, ten lions, six tigers and a polar bear
October 26 2018, 12:01am, The Times

At the centre of Rosa Bouglione’s apartment in Paris lay one of her most beloved possessions: a leopard-skin rug with head still attached. “That’s Mickey,” she would say to visitors. “He died of old age. We had him a long time.”
With her sparkling diamonds, a dash of red lipstick and her once-dark hair swept up in an elegant bun, Bouglione was the matriarch of five generations of a famous French circus family. She once hosted Maria Callas, the soprano, on stage at the theatre the family ran — the enormous Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus), which had several thousand seats. However, as Callas got too close to Bouglione’s husband, Joseph, she was almost crushed by an elephant. “The elephant practically knocked her over,” she recalled. “He was jealous.”
Bouglione was regularly sought out to talk about her adventures around the world with her husband and their circus. They toured constantly. On one trip to Brazil, during which they were accompanied by 30 horses, ten lions, six tigers and a polar bear, there was a storm at sea and the captain almost resorted to having the 12 elephants thrown overboard. “That was an adventure,” she said.

On another occasion she had to smuggle a baby gorilla into her hotel room in a hat box. “Gosh. Madame’s hats are pretty heavy,” she recalled the doorman saying . The gorilla went on to make hammocks out of the hotel curtains and developed a taste for wine, but was undetected by staff for a month. Bouglione also had a bad-tempered parrot, Coco, who lived to the age of 45 and spoke in a stream of foul language.
Often nicknamed “the undisputed queen of the circus”, Bouglione still went to matinees even after she had retired from running performances. “The shows got bigger and the children got bigger but I got smaller,” she said.
She was born Rosalie van Been in the back of a horse-drawn caravan in Belgium in 1910. Her father, Jules, was an animal trainer with the family outfit, Ménagerie van Been, and toured Europe with his wife, Gina (née Penetenti), and their snakes, bears and lions. In her teens Rosa performed the snake dance while her father controlled the lions. Aged 17, she fell in love with Joseph Bouglione, who had grown up training big cats. They married in a lion’s cage. The pastor chose to stay outside.
They spent their honeymoon working with the Wild West show, which had been set up by the bison hunter turned showman Buffalo Bill Cody. In 1934 they returned to France to run the Cirque d’Hiver, which Joseph bought with his three brothers. They lived at the circus and had seven children: Odette, Josette, Firmin, Emilien, Sandrine, Sampion and Joseph. They all joined the troupe. And all except Sandrine survive her.
During the Second World War the cirque was allowed to continue under Nazi occupation and the family hid their Romany origins behind their Italian name. Yet over the years Bouglione recalled that they faced disapproval for their gipsy roots. “People said we’d steal children.” she said, “but we never did. We had our own children, we didn’t need to steal children.”
In the 1950s Bouglione began to organise acts rather than perform in them. The circus hosted live television specials with singers such as Josephine Baker and Callas alongside acrobats and animals. In 2011 Bouglione published her memoirs, Un mariage dans la cage aux lions: la grande saga du cirque Bouglione (A wedding in the lions’ cage: the great saga of the Bouglione circus). In interviews she would call on her son Emilien, who was by then in his eighties, as her “memory aid”.
She put her longevity down to hard work, to sleeping very little and to deadly animals. “I’ve always, always been with lions, with panthers, with wolves, with hyenas,” she said. “I was never scared.” Her funeral took place in the Cirque d’Hiver. With 55 descendants, she often said that “as long as there are children, there will be circus”.
Rosa Bouglione, circus matriarch, was born on December 21, 1910. She died on August 26, 2018, aged 107