Sunday, March 15, 2020

The Lovely Normality of Mali

 The Library business was successfully organized- The new project is up and running, and the mini project- my commission of two calligraphers to copy two of the library's newest and most stunning aquisitions- is also on its way.
 In Djenne not much changes, apart from the tragic degradation of the public buildings such as the post office, ( this gate below leading to the square in front of the Mairie a good example); the relatively new enormous Maison d'Artisans- a gift from the Danes to Djenne- and just about everywhere else is falling apart for lack of maintenance. The  Mosque and the Library are the exceptions, those buildings are still receiving their yearly Crepissage.
Before leaving I was once more privileged to attend the opening ceremony for the cataract operations which my cousing Pelle and his wife Nanni sponsored for the 7th year running.


 People had come from the villages and slept the night before in the hospital court yard, just to be sure that they would be seen- and they all were. This year over 200 people received free operations in the week-long campaign by Dr. Faira Keita and his devoted team.


This young Dozo, or traditional hunter was waiting his turn to be examined. During the last couple of years, these hunters have formed the militia which has kept the Jihadist threat at bay in the Circle of Djenne, and they have done so relatively successfully, in the absence of either UN forces or any real Malian army presence. This situation is quite unique in Mali and whatever one might have to say about unauthorised grass roots militias, in this case, and for the moment at least, the situation is calm and peace is continuing in the large part of the Circle de Djenne- the area towards Mauritania including the towns of Mourha and Kouakouro on the eastern shore of the Niger is not included and those towns are out of bounds, in the hands of Koufa's men and apparently suffering great hardship.

The French Barkhane troops, the Sahel force which, in contrast to the UN troops, has offensive power in the fight against the Jihadist are expanding to over 5000.  They are also going to be joined by soldiers from other nations, including Sweden to try and tackle the escalating security threat in the area it has recently been announced.
 

The last days in Mali were spent with dear Karen, and once more we went for long morning hikes with her dogs in the lovely hills around Bamako. Those days seem idyllic now, and so normal...
Mali, with all its problems is a haven of normality in comparison to the chaos of London and Europe into which I flew on Wednesday. I cannot quite fathom how we have arrived at this mass hysteria in such a short time!
I am not personally worried in the slightest about catching this Corona virus.  I have to die of something, but I think it fairly unlikely that it will be this, statistically.  My age group has apparently about 3% risk of fatality. I am much more worried about dying of boredom if I am not allowed to go out or see anyone or have anyone coming to visit me... I am going ahead with the Dante evening on Wednesday- let's see how many will dare to come!
And last night I went to the opening night of The Marriage of Figaro at the English National Opera:

Tomorrow to The Print room at the lovely Coronet theatre for a play- trying to squeeze as much in as possible of human interaction before it is all closed down, bolted and the keys thrown out!

2 comments:

  1. Same here - Picasso at the Royal Academy this afternoon has tumbleweed blowing through the galleries - unlike its opening week when we first visited and there were 6 people between you and every picture. Since the Tate has already closed - highly recommend the RA for a final 'dose' (of culture).

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  2. What you didn't mention was that you wouldn't want to pass on the infecion to a much older person...

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