The dry Mali December
landscape opened itself to me like a
well-thumbed favourite book as I sped northwards in the hired Mercedes with Ga
from Djenne at the wheel. How many times have I travelled this road? I tried to
calculate. It must be hundreds by now. I know every twist and turn. I know
every roadside market and I know all the produce that changes through the
seasons. Now the water melons are piled up in great abundance and the delicious
small Pommes de Sahel are offered in
plastic bags by the enthusiastic village women who rush up to the car and fall
over themselves hoping for a sale. Soon it will be the season for the custard
apple, the wondrous creamy fruit I call the fruit of paradise. And there are
always the roasted peanuts of course.
The harvest of the
millet was mainly over and the cattle had begun grazing the remaining stubble in the fields. But here and there a lone farmer still tended his remaining
crop, watched over by a baobab. Those marvellous trees! If only they spoke our
language. Just imagine what they would say. .. these below look quite annoyed. Perhaps they are outraged
at what Mali has become, like everyone else. The parallels drawn between
Afghanistan and Mali are becoming frequent, as the way forward seems to be
endlessly forking into swampy terrain and losing itself.
The familiarity of my
land and my house in Djenne feels like home, even now. Maman was there to greet me and so was Papa
to give me food and make me almost forget that my life here is over. I sat on
the roof of my mud house and looked towards the west and the Mosque (just visible to the right below) where the
boys played football in the setting sun like they always have.
And when the sun
had disappeared below the dusty horizon I turned around towards the east and
saw the great full moon rise over the turrets which were once my hotel.
I wonder why reading this makes me sad, perhaps more sad than you yourself feel at the moment. I was thinking about the baobob trees at the foot of the falaise in the Pays Dogon only yesterday.
ReplyDeleteMali does feel bittersweet to me now... I am glad you made it here.
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