Where to even begin...

I arrived back in London on Wednesday after two intense weeks in Mali. This time Father Columba Stewart, my boss, joined me, escaping his Minnesota monastery for the first time in a year and a half.

          

Our Italian colleague Maria Luisa also joined us and we ventured north together  for our three day visit to Djenne, driven in an airconditioned 4x4 this time.  We stopped at the splendid San Mosque on the way north:

Visits to some of my favourite villages around Djenne followed – we looked at family manuscript collections in the glorious little mud village Gomitogo (first two pictures above) where the best calligraphers are found:

                                                  

 we visited  Imam Yelpha in Djenne of course, who spoke about the security situation which is calm around Djenne as it has been for some years now- not in a small measure due to his own quiet and discreet mediation between the different factions- jihadists and Donso hunters who are strong around Djenne.                                                                 

                                                

‘My ‘ calligraphers had finished the ‘Dalai al Kayrat’ (Prayers upon the Prophet) which I commissioned a year ago- it is beautiful and  I took a lot of pictures which will be used as promotional material for a little trial venture- will we be able to get commissions for more? I am hoping it is the beginning of a calligraphy studio in Djenne...? This copy was now bought by Columba for HMML- it will perhaps be  displayed in the Museum in Minnesota.

                                         

Two of the Timbuktu workers had braved the road south and came down to see us bearing the last hard drives from our Timbuktu Project which is now officially closed. The last evening we all had a meal at the Campement Hotel, and guess who prepared our meal? My old chef Papa of course, and he cooked us Boeuf Keita again...

                                                                

In two days the cataract team lead by Dr. Faira Keita will once more arrive in Djenne for their yearly week of operations on the village population- as always sponsored by the generosity of Pelle and Nanni – my cousin and his wife. The dates did not quite coincide, so this year I could not be there for the opening ceremony- always dedicated to my Keita who worked for many years at the Djenne hospital. A minutes silence is held for him. This year it was the 5^th anniversary of his death.

I visited the family of course- in Bamako and Mai in Segou. Moussa, Keita’s eldest son came with me to the cemetary where I gave him Keita’s bracelet which I have worn since he died. It was always destined for him, and when I saw him crying at the grave I took off the bracelet and gave it to him.

                   

And then the customary hikes around the hills of Bamako with Karen with whom I stayed the last few days. A lovely trip...

                                               

Arriving in London a labyrinthine obstacle course at Heathrow with hour long queues and umpteen papers and online forms that had to be filled in- interviews by officials and extreme patience required. Travelling now is not for the faint hearted... finally got through and have been called at home by someone from gov.Uk checking up on me already. Have to stay 10 days in self isolation. Nevermind. It was worth it!