Sunday, October 7, 2018

The Djenne Manuscript Library in Peril.

After I had written the last entry from the British Library  Private view I also posted the pictures on Facebook, and I received this comment ( below in my translation) from Ousman Yaro who  works at the Djenne Manuscript Library. He is  the grandson of a celebrated Djenne poet: 

 “Congratulations and a big thanks to our coordinator  Sophie Sarin on behalf of the people of Djenne in general, and the personnel of the Djenne Manuscript Library in particular. But the awful thing is that the Djenne Manuscript Library, unless nothing is done in the coming month, is threatened with closure! All the projects are now finished. The last one came to an end only a few days ago. The personnel, with more than eight years of work experience, will have to find other activities and the manuscript owners will no longer have confidence in the library’s ability to look after their collections and will therefore remove them. Such are the consequences if the Malian state; the funding bodies and the benefactors withdraw, or don’t continue their  involvement!”
It is indeed a very serious situation. I made an appeal in my speech at the British Library for help.  Below  is  my speech,  and  the last  section is the relevant one:

“Ten years ago I had nothing to do with Malian manuscripts. That I am standing here today about to talk about these projects in Djenne is one of those twists and turns of fate one could hardly make up.
One day in 2008 two Djenne dignitaries dressed in embroidered boubous and prayer caps  arrived at my little mud hotel in Djenne. They were from the Djenne Manuscript Library: an institution I had frankly never heard of- I had been too busy looking after tourists during what was still a happy time in Mali, which was an up and coming tourist destination.  The Djenne notables invited me to come and see the library- also a mud building in the celebrated Djenne architecture, which had earned this ancient city UNESCO world heritage status.  The library needed funding. Could I help them? In those days there were not many families who had deposited their manuscript treasures there yet, but enough to make me fascinated:  so it was not only Timbuktu that had manuscripts? I should have known better of course- Djenne is actually much older than Timbuktu, and Islam penetrated here in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, during the height of the Malian empire, when the first version of the famous Djenne mosque was built. Of course there would be manuscripts here!
In the summer of 2009 the Endangered Archives Programme organized a conference here at the British Library. I went along to this and met the people in charge who seemed in favour of our putting a proposal together for our first  Pilot Project- including Cathy Collins... are you here? Cathy sent me off to SOAS to meet Dr. Dmitry Bondarev, and he  became the projects’ academic sponsor, a position he still retains, as well as a becoming a trusted advisor and good friend.

The  four  Endangered Archives Programmes in Djenne ran between 2009 and 2016 during which time the library’s collection grew from a few hundred manuscripts belonging to a handful of Djenne families to becoming an important depository for   8520 manuscripts belonging to 141 Djenne families. The subject matter of the manuscripts is varied, although with a large proportion of Islamic texts such as Korans, Islamic jurisprudence and Hadiths, or traditional stories concerning the Prophet Mohammed and his companions. There is also a very large collection of what is called ‘esoteric’ texts, which concerns magic- a speciality of the Djenne Marabouts, who are famous all over West Africa. These manuscripts include talismans and also many herbal remedies and traditional healing recipes.
The policy of the library has been to offer open access to scholars who would like to study the manuscripts in situ, but the deteriorating political situation in northern and Central Mali has meant that very few scholars have been able to avail themselves of this opportunity.

That is why this great collection of nearly half a million images from the Manuscripts of Djenne , which will now go online, together with the ongoing major project with three libraries in Timbuktu is truly an expression of what the Endangered Archives Programme Project is all about- these documents are now virtually out of bounds and they are indeed endangered, not only by the perennial hazards of climate and insects, but also by an increasingly precarious security climate.  However, this great collection is saved, at least in digital form, for posterity, and for that we thank Arcadia and the Endangered Archives Programme!
Finally, I have a request:  the Djenne Manuscript Library is now losing all its funding. The staff, in particular Garba Yaro, its devoted main archivist, will no longer have a salary. The central Government sees the library as the responsibility of the local community and of the Mairie, as part of decentralization. But the Mairie of Djenne is entirely without funding and has not paid its own staff for many months. The actual mud building of the library need a yearly recoating of mud.
The good news is that this is not a question of a lot of money: with £ 6000- £7000 a year, Garba Yaro would keep his job, the library would get its yearly  coating and a modest few light bulbs would be kept alight.  And most importantly, the Djenne families who have deposited their manuscripts in the library for safe keeping would not have to remove them again. Djenne Manuscript Library, painstakingly and lovingly built up during the last ten years into a major resource would still remain. Please will someone help me to give that wonderful news to the Djenne team on the 7th of December in Bamako!"

Monday, October 1, 2018

The British Library

 A well-attended and enjoyable Private View of the Djenne Exhibition last Thursday- here in some pictures courtesy of David.  The first shows Roly Keating, the Director of the BL opening the event. Next to him Lisbet Rausing,  my fellow Swede whose  Arcadia fund has sponsored the Endangered Archives Programme since it began in 2004.   The evening took on a greater importance than expected, since a new funding or seven years for the EAP amounting to nine million pounds was announced.
 The speeches and drinks was held in front of the beautiful central glass book area- an architectural master piece, I think.
 The exhibition is one floor up.





When I gave my speech I first invited Kolado Landoure, a friend from Djenne who lives in London, to say a few words in Songhai, as a greeting to the Djenne people, since the whole event was filmed and will be shown in Bamako on the 7th of December when this exhibition will open at the Archives Nationales and  we hold a ceremony there. The British Embassy will co-sponsor this event, and Cat Evans, our ambassador to Mali,  happened to be in London on Thursday and was able to join us at the BL and also gave a speech:

I finished my address by asking for some money for the Djenne Manuscript Library, which is now totally lacking in funding, since the projects are finished. With only £6000-£7000 a year it can be kept going and Garba, our devoted archivist will keep his job. Let's see if something can be done...

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

The Beeb


The ordeal is over. The three minutes LIVE on air has passed, and I survived. Why this should hold such terrors for me I don’t know, but it does. When the BBC car arrived for me yesterday at dawn and brought me through empty early morning London streets to Broadcasting House I felt as if  I were being taken to my execution. It is the idea of a live interview that terrifies me- what if I should suddenly become overcome by the giggles, or start stammering, or not understand the questions asked or have an attack of touretts and start swearing or saying rude things? Now, those possibilities are remote, but they do exit, so they had robbed me of all sleep during the preceding night...
Once in the venerable Art Deco building, I was taken through a vast hall full of seemingly hundreds of working desks – mostly empty at this hour- with computer screens until we arrived in an area which had a sign above it advertising the fact that we were now entering  the LIVE broadcasting zone where silence must reign. To me it might as well have read ‘Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter Here...’
I was shown into a waiting room from which the recording studio with the news readers/presenters was visible through glass walls. Another  interviewee was sitting there drinking coffee and looking through his notes. He turned out to be a transport union official and he was there to talk about Brexit. I confessed to him that I was very, very  unhappy...then it all happened and we were brusquely shown in to the recording studio on tip toes where we were silently kitted up with earphones. My fellow interviewee went first and was of course brilliantly concise, confident and a marvel of concentration. My heart was thumping away so loudly that I was sure it must already  be audible to the millions of Today listeners who were having baths, brushing their teeth or making toast.  I comforted myself with the fact that it was at least so early that most people I knew were certainly still in bed...

And then it was finally my turn. We went off to a bad start, but strangely it was the interviewer, Martha Kearney, who fluffed it, not I! She began by talking about the new exhibition of images from Djenne at the BRITISH MUSEUM rather than the British Library... so I had to begin by correcting her. Then she wanted to know why the manuscripts of Mali were important, and I was able to cobble something together about Sub Saharan Africa having been seen as a place virtually without history since it was believed that there was no written documentation, but that the study of the Malian manuscripts during the last thirty years had proven that on the contrary, West Africa was rich in centuries old documentation through the Arabic manuscripts etc etc... and the rest went if not swimmingly, at least I believe it was a pass...
The ordeal is over, and now I will actually just enjoy the Private View of the Djenne Exhibition tomorrow night at the British Library. I will give my speech, but that holds no great terrors- the place will be full of friends. The event is heavily oversubscribed and  many people who did not RSVP in time are now finding themselves unable to attend!
More later...

Friday, September 21, 2018

How to eat a sandwich

 There is only one satisfying way to eat a sandwich, as everyone knows. One must nibble around the edges until one creates a perfect circle.
 Then the lovely moment arrives when one chomps into the circle and creates the crescent, which become a moustache of course. This moment always has the potential to irritate people I have noticed. People finds one quite silly at this point. But not one's real friends. They understand. This moment sorts the wheat from the chaff.
 The friends that stay with you even when you repeat this every lunchtime, they are the ones worth keeping.
 Now, there is another important matter I would like to discuss regarding eating habits. It concerns the Pain au Raisin. I have noticed that one can tell a lot from the way people treat  a Pain au Raisin, and here again one can come across the most disturbing habits, which , I believe, tell volumes about people's psyche.  I have gone into many a cafe and ordered a Pain au Raisin and  when the waitress brings it out, she has massacred it by cutting it straight across its lovely curly body!

  Obviously there is only one way of eating this delicious French invention: one has to uncurl it bit by bit until one reaches the lovely heart of it... the sheer insensitivity of some people dumbfounds me.
And yes, I am still crawling around on my hands and knees on the Auckland floorcloth... and it is beginning to get the better of me.
My lovely God children have now left me to go to university.
I still haven't written that blasted  speech for the Private View at the British Library of the Djenne exhibition next week... it is beginning to stress me out. And I have just been asked to speak on Radio 4's Today programme on Tuesday! And it is live. I hate that sort of thing... But can't very well say no I suppose.
Mali is booked.
Leaving on the 7th of October....
LATER:  Just about to try and write that speech... and of course I am very happy about this event at the British Library and even, I suppose about the radio interview- but only lacking in confidence.

Sunday, September 9, 2018

This and That...

The most fun of all that happened this week was undoubtedly that my dear friend Kathy Prendergast, (whom I have known since our days at the Royal College of Art when she was in the Sculpture school and I was in Fashion)  won a new big art prize on Friday night: £50 000! The very first David and Yuko Juda Art Foundation yearly prize  was announced at a Private View at the Annely Juda Fine Art Gallery in Dering Street. She was one of eight nominees, but was so certain that she was not going to get it that she had not prepared any thank you speech ...

 There is noone more deserving than Kathy: hard working, dedicated and inspired, she makes thoughtful delicate work, but she is also a great mum who has always had to juggle the demands of motherhood with a demanding career as an artist. Now she will be able to throw herself in 100% again! Her children have grown up and are now going to university- but at the moment they are working as my painting assistants as the three of us are crawling around on our hands and knees in a studio in Queen's Park, painting the floor canvas for Auckland Castle. We have to be out of here by the end of September- it is touch and go whether we will be ready...

 I took the day off today- it is incredibly hard work physically- and enjoyed a lovely quiet  Sunday until my old friends Claire and Geoff called and enticed me out: just around the corner  to something called 'Portobello Soul', a mini music festival with live bands, bars and exotic food stalls.

And while all this London activity is going on, there is also preparation for my next Mali trip in the beginning of October- but first the British Library exhibition with its Private View on the 27th of this month- I am supposed to give a speech! and unaccustomed as I am ...ahem, it does worry me a little...

Saturday, September 1, 2018

For Goodness’s sake: Let’s stop this Labour ‘anti-semitic’ nonsense!

First of all, I am not a Labour voter and I have never been. I don’t particularly like Corbyn. But I am just appalled at the continuing accusations of anti-semitism being thrown his way. This whole affair is insidious and disingenious in all its aspects. It is all unbelievably simple, but no one dares to speak the truth, because the Jewish Lobby is all-powerful. But have some courage F.F.S.!  

 So what is this simple problem? It is that the state of Israel calls ‘anti-Semitic’ anyone who dares questioning its behaviour towards the Palestinians. And that is all that Corbyn has –rightly- done. We all feel that the Jews were the target of some of the world’s most horrific and unforgivable mistreatment during the holocaust. That is without doubt. But that doesn’t give the State of Israel a Carte Blanche to  to behave however it pleases!

There is of course no question about it- Israel is behaving in an illegal way – it is occupying territories that does not belong to the state of Israel.  Get a grip! Unless I am missing something?  I am certainly willing to be disabused with a convincing argument. But let’s stop this beating around the bush, being scared of the Jews!

Sunday, August 26, 2018

Carnival


                                                                        
Most – no, this year  ALL- of my Notting Hill friends escape for carnival. Whenever I am in London and have possession of my flat, I cannot help but revel childishly in Carnival. I see all the floats pass by my window on Ladbroke Grove. This morning, at 6.45 I was awoken by the very first steel band accompanying the first revellers of J’Ouvais, the traditional first wave of Carnival. I confess to shedding a little tear of joy and excitement at the appearance of the paint- splattering participants. In 1988 I partook of J’Ouvais in Port of Spain, Trinidad with my then husband John. We flew over  from Tobago in a little plane just for the evening before Carnival, when no one sleeps in Port of Spain. The whole city  vibrates as everyone dances, jumps, shouts and throws paint, chocolate, flour, sugar and anything else at hand in a first orgiastic expression of carnival fever. (picture below of a 'blue Devil, a traditional J'Ouvais character). At eight  the following morning we flew back to Tobago, and the flight crew had to cover our seats with plastic in order to let us sit down, we were so encrusted with carnival debris .  

Another year I took part in all of Carnival at Port of Spain and danced with the legendary band of Peter Minchall, Trinidadian Carnival designer extraordinaire. We were ‘the Desert Storm’, and dressed in far too voluminous outfits. Minchall’s aesthetics always won over more practical considerations- we were to dance through  the streets of Port of Spain for ca 18 hours after all, but that was of no interest to him ... Onlookers stood ready in the streets and gardens of the city with drinks, sweets and SALT as we danced past – it is amazing how one craves salt after 12 hours continuous dancing !

Traditional carnival behaviour includes the 'wining',  which is, to be honest, more or less simulated sex while dancing with total strangers. It is all part of carnival and actually quite innocent- at least I have always found it so. During carnivals in Port of Spain the 'wining' is extreme, but it always goes as far as one wants it, and no further. If one has had enough, one just leaves, and 'wines' somewhere else. But when I 'did' Carnival in Rio one year in the early 2000's, I found that Brazilians seemed to be much more easily chocked. I 'wined' like I used to in Port of Spain, and my dancing partners definitely thought, quite mistakenly, that I was 'up for it'. I shrugged my shoulders and rolled my eyes  at such provincial attitudes and suggested they should get out more and experience carnival at
Port of Spain..

Some years ago my brother Anders used to stay with me often in my Notting Hill flat when he worked in London. He was with me one Carnival for the whole experience including the J’Ouvais madness; then onto the time honoured Gaz’s Rockin’ Blues, run by the son of blues legend John Mayall at the Globe in Talbot Road where we parked ourselves for the duration of Carnival, to the rythms of Rock Steady, Ska and early Marley, as well as fabulous jazz/blues live offerings.
Alas, this year as I directed my steps once again  to the legendary Globe on Talbot Road I was profoundly disappointed to find that just this year there was a break- no Gaz’s Rockin’ Blues until next year for ‘Family reasons’ ! Oh, NO! 
Today the rain is pelting down on the Carnival revellers as they pass by my Ladboke Grove window. But no one seems to mind. I am casting my eyes over the sea of humanity gyrating to the strains of Soca- that life giving sound from Trinidad that doesn’t really live outside the frame of carnival. How much fun there is to be had at carnival, and I am very grateful that I am able to suck it in. It would be very easy to turn one’s nose up and say’ No, thank goodness I am escaping to the country side!’ but Glory hallelujah I am still childish enough to love carnival...